Monday, May 18, 2009

Jak Bordeaux i Rioja spotkały się przy ruszcie

Soczysty kawał wołowiny przypieczony na pierwszym w tym roku grillu planowałem popić butelką z Bordeaux z 2005 roku. Wino okazało się na tyle lekkie i przyjemne, że starczyło ochoty na więcej. Skoczyłem więc do piwnicy/garażu po jeszcze jedną butelkę – padło na Roję z 2003 roku. Oba wina mają wspólny mianownik – Założyciel winiarni, z której pochodził moja hiszpańska butelka - Luciano Francisco Ramon de Murrieta – w 1848 roku przybył do Bordeaux by uczyć się produkcji wina. Po czterech latach wrócił do domu i z wykorzystaniem świeżo nabytej wiedzy zaczął wytwarzać wysokiej jakości wina Rioja. Zacznijmy jednak od Medoc:

Nazwa: Chateau de Hauterive

Kraj: Francja, Medoc, Cru Burgeois

Szczep: Cabernet Sauvignon

Rocznik: 2005

Cena: około 10 euro

Miejsce zakupu: na jakimś lotnisku

Brzydka czarna etykieta przypominająca tanie, hipermarketowe „Carte Noir”. Wino klarowne, dość ciemne, wiśniowe. W nosie zaskoczyła mnie lekkość i soczystość. Z początku sporo kompotu wiśniowego, z czasem więcej żurawiny, w tle cień wanilii i cynamonu. W ustach znowu niespodzianka – wino lekkie, na początku sprawiało wręcz wrażenie trochę wodnistego. Mało ciała ale za to sporo soczystości. Garbniki minimalne, delikatne.

Każde kolejne wino którego próbuję, uświadamia mi jak niewiele wiem i jakie błędne skojarzenia potworzyły mi się w głowie. Sięgając po Medoc myślałem o winie dość ciężkim, mocno garbnikowym. Oczywiście było zupełnie inaczej – w kieliszku nieco przejrzyste, w ustach soczyste i lekkie, w nosie aromatyczne i świeże. Zaskoczyła mnie przede wszystkim niska garbnikowość. Może to wpływ dobrego rocznika? (choć przecież to wino było jeszcze całkiem młode!) Raczej na pewno nie jest to czyste Cab Sav ale mimo krótkiego researchu w sieci nie udało mi się ustalić szczegółów. W każdym razie to do takiego wina idealnie pasuje angielska nazwa Claret – czyste, głębokie, bardzo przyjemne.


Nazwa: Marques de Murrieta Reserva 2003

Kraj: Hiszpania, Roja Alta, Finca Ygay, 25 miesięcy w amerykańskim dębie.

Szczep: 88% Tempranillo, 8% Grenacha, 4% Mazuelo

Rocznik: 2003

Cena: 17 Euro

Miejsce zakupu: Barcelona

Kolor głęboki, ciemno rubinowy. W nosie gęsto, słonecznie i słodko, ale nie dusząco. Na początku przyjemne aromaty konfiturowe, powidła śliwkowe, słodkie przyprawy. Potem więcej rodzynkowej słodyczy. W tym wszystkim bardzo delikatne, słodkawe, orzechowe aromaty beczkowe. Usta krągłe, pełne i aksamitne. W smaku soczyste, w teksturze kremowe i puszyste. Garbnik gładkie, nie męczące.

Choć wino długo leżało w beczce, nie zmieniło się w syrop waniliowy albo kokosowy budyń. Beczka nie dominuje smaku a jedynie zaokrągla i tak już pełne i bardzo przyjemne wino. Bardzo fajna Roja i słusznie wypita po Medocu, jakby na deser. Bardzo dobre wino od znanego producenta.

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